by Dave Rodney, Contributing Caribbean Times Writer
This weekend, the captivating island of Jamaica is celebrating her 60th anniversary of independence. Shortly after midnight on August 6, 1962, the Union Jack was replace by the audacious black, green and gold Jamaican flag, a symbol of great hope for a new nation.
I traveled to Jamaica a few weeks ago to grab a glimpse of what this vibrant island has to offer for the traveler during this year of jubilation.
My first stop was Montego Bay and the bustling airport was a sure sign that summer travel had surpassed pre-Covid levels. I checked into the new wing of the sprawling and enchanting Half Moon Hotel where the old school personalized welcomes were as warm as the Caribbean sun. The new wing at Half Moon, called Eclipse, comes with everything you’d want in luxury accommodations. Spacious suites loaded with 5-star amenities set in a lush tropical garden, only steps away from a shimmering turquoise beach, an infinity pool, several bars and a choice of restaurants.
Despite the seductive allure of the resort, I tore myself away to soak up some of the exciting new attractions around Montego Bay. Nearby is a 19th century mansion called Rose Hall Great House, and the restored property now offers a chilling, dramatic after dark tour that tells the story of the astonishing carryings on at the sugar plantation house in the early 1800s. I did a mouthwatering Sunday lunch at the breathtaking Round Hill Hotel. Fashion icon Ralph Lauren has a villa there, and the service is second to none. Then it was off to Animal Farm and Nature Reserve located in surrounding green hills, an absolute delight for nature and wildlife lovers. And art admirers can explore the works of prominent Jamaican visual artist Ras Natango whose gallery is located in a botanic garden overlooking the Caribbean Sea. If you’re in the mood, you can feed multi-colored hummingbirds who will perch on your extended finger while you grab a photo of this extraordinary encounter. Both reggae and rum are well established staples of Jamaica, and I was able to combine a love for both at the annual Appleton Rum Festival that takes place in June in Montego Bay. Looking for local food? Check out Pelican Grill in town, Scotchie’s for spicy jerk meats and sides or Spirits, a new new seaside party spot in Ironshore, Montego Bay with an array of classic Jamaican dishes.
Trelawny is the new buzz center on the Jamaican north coast. Falmouth, the capital, is a cruise ship port and several new resorts have opened nearby including Ocean Coral Spring Resort where I stayed. Spanking new, state-of-the-art extravagance at many of the area resorts including Excellence, Royalton Blue Waters and Ocean Eden Bay. The area is dripping with excellent attractions too. I did Martha Brae River Rafting with river tubing and zip line adventures, Glistening waters, a luminous lake, Swamp Safari Village, a crocodile sanctuary and shopping for local fruits in season at the new Falmouth Market.
Ocho Rios is perfect for either quiet romantic hideaways or action-packed adventure. My residence there was the exquisite and elegant Jamaica Inn, a boutique hotel that has quietly welcomed celebrities, movie stars and royalty for over five decades. Marilyn Monroe honeymooned there. One of the biggest attractions there is a postcard-perfect dream beach, and all the rooms are beachfront. The food at Jamaica Inn is an epicurean journey and executive chef Maurice Henry and his team not only infuse local produce in their cooking but on Fridays, they take guests out to the local market to teach them about Jamaican foods followed by cooking demonstrations. With Jamaica Inn located right in Ocho Rios, it was the perfect springboard to explore the area. Dunns River Falls and Park, arguably the most visited attractions in the Caribbean with its cascading 600 ft. waterfalls was the first of many stops. The park now includes a rest area for quiet meditation, a kiddies water park, an area for art and craft vending and a plant nursery for tropical blooms. White River, a few miles away, is packed with options, from river rafting to tubing and zip line. Blue Hole in the surrounding countryside is perfect for swimming and diving. And Taste of Jamaica, a farm and garden tour that showcases over 50 medicinal plants is not to be missed. The experience ends with a delicious home cooked outdoor meal.
While in the area, I visited the new Ian Flemming International Airport. It is an impressive and hassle free port of entry for the Ocho Rios area with most of the amenities of the larger airports. Flights have already started coming in, and American Airlines has scheduled service from Miami planned for later this year.
Kingston is the cultural capital of Jamaica, and many of the movements in dance, music, theater, cuisine and art first begin in this lively, trend-setting hub. My auberge there was the Altamont Court, a quiet and comfortable family-owned 58 room property that is located on the quiet side of New Kingston. All the amenities that you’d find in the larger city hotels are there. The staff remembers your name. After the delight of your complimentary Jamaican breakfast, one can bask next to a mango tree with a cold Red Stripe beer or a planter’s punch by the poolside where local and international guests mingle in the evenings.
I was determined to make the most my Kingston stay so I wasted no time in dashing off to the Bob Marley Museum, then to Gloria’s at Port Royal for fish and bammy, a celestially delicious local treat. I sampled other restaurants too that served up tasty treats- Sonia’s and Susie’s in the Half Way Tree area, The Mango Tree on Chelsea Avenue, Janga’s Soundbar and Grill on Belmont Road and Pushpa’s Indian Restaurant in Liguanea. And for roadside delicacies, one can feast on land crabs, roast yam, roast corn and soup at the Crab Arcade at Heroe’s Circle.
But the exciting cuisine was only one part of the fun. The National Gallery located downtown is the island’s largest treasure house of Jamaican art and the gallery’s flagship event called Kingston Biennial: Pressure runs until December 31, 2022. Also nearby are other landmarks- Kingston Parish Church, Coke Methodist Church and the Simon Bolivar Cultural Center that sits next to the legendary Ward Theatre at North Parade. While I was in Kingston, a point of interest was the ordination of the first male dreadlocked priest in the Anglican Church that took place in the old capital of Spanish Town. Theatrical productions have started up again after a Covid lockdown and the National Dance Theatre Company (NDTC) is currently in season performance at the Little Theatre. There is a steady roster of nightclubs with reggae and dancehall parties every night of the week. including Usain Bolt’s Tracks & Records and Ribbie’s at two locationsare among the popular choices. Kingstonians are big lovers of sports, and visitors can often catch a track and field meet at the National Stadium, a game of cricket at Sabina Park, football at local clubs and horse racing at Caymannas Park.
After a few days in Kingston, I had an urge to spread my wings to the Southcoast. So I made plans for a day trip to Malvern in St. Elizabeth to enjoy a country lunch and spend the day at Windmill Cottages, a small, breezy and rejuvenating new development that took its inspiration from the collection of area windmills. We glided quickly along the South Coast Highway, crossed the rippling waters of the Rio Minho, inhaled the cool mountain air of Spur Tree, and before long we found ourselves in the middle of Jamaica’s sprawling bread basket with unending ribbons of fruits and vegetables. It was easy relaxation at Windmill Cottages and I could see why Bob Marley’s keyboardist Tyrone Downie was there too. Everything that was served for the delicious outdoor lunch- ackee, breadfruit, bammy, beet salad, salt water fish and lemongrass punch- are treats from South St. Elizabeth. On the way back to Kingston we made stops to view Bethlehem Teachers’ College, Hampton School and Munro College, all pre-independence landmark institutions. We pulled up in Junction for a cold Dragon Stout and the bartender boasted that Junction is one of the fastest growing towns in all of Jamaica. Sadly, not one bag of Middle Quarters pepper shrimp anywhere in sight, but the thrilling experience of buying roadside mangoes along the way more than made up for the mysterious disappearance of the peppered shrimp.
And how about some beach time before your Kingston departure? Yes, absolutely! Sun worshippers can enjoy the balmy waters at one of the beaches at Hellshire, just 30 minutes from New Kingston. So no matter what part of the island you go, a surprising package of tempting thrills awaits you. Jamaica is truly the heartbeat of the world!
Dave Rodney is an award-winning travel writer and a winner of the Caribbean Tourism Organization’s Marcia Vickery Wallace Prize for Excellence in Travel Journalism
PHOTOS
The postcard-perfect beach at Jamaica Inn is always a big attraction
The Crab Arcade at Heroes Circle in Kingston
Reggae sensation Romain Virgo performing at the Appleton Rum Festival in Montego Bay
This writer Dave Rodney examines a bunch of unusual bananas at Windmill Cottages in Malver
Rose Hall Great House, illuminated for the after dark tour
ALL PHOTOS BY DAVE RODNEY
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